© Handlery Union Square Hotel
A heated outdoor pool, a prime spot near Union Square and a family-owned hotel business with a century of history. The Handlery Union Square Hotel offers a different take on a San Francisco stay.
In a city dominated by big hotel chains, there’s something rather lovely about a hotel where the family whose name is on the door is still running the show. The Handlery Union Square Hotel has been welcoming guests to San Francisco for more than 75 years, but the family’s hotel story began in nearby Vallejo in 1928, and the centenary celebrations are already on the horizon.
It’s a story of grit and good timing… and a family that’s made looking after guests its business for generations.
But before we get into that, let’s talk about the practical stuff. Where you’ll sleep, how easy it is to get around and, of course, why the kids will make a beeline for that heated outdoor pool the minute you get back.
Why stay at the Handlery Union Square Hotel
But before we get to the history, there’s the small matter of where you’ll sleep, how you’ll get around and why it’s worth booking.
Just steps from Union Square, the Handlery has a pretty compelling trick up its sleeve. In downtown San Francisco, that’s quite a find, particularly if you’re travelling with kids who would happily spend the afternoon in the water after a day of pounding the hills.
Just a block from Union Square, the Handlery has another rather compelling trick up its sleeve: a heated outdoor pool, open year-round in the middle of downtown San Francisco. It’s a rare find in a city better known for its hills and fog than its swimming weather and a welcome place for kids to burn off energy after a day of sightseeing.
The location helps, too. The Powell Street cable car turnaround is about a five-minute walk away, as is BART, which connects with San Francisco International Airport. There’s little need to hire a car, and when you’re ready to put your feet up, there’s a free sauna and a 24-hour gym. Families can spread out in rooms with two queen beds or a family suite, while couples can treat themselves to a balcony room or the Rooftop Garden Suite with its private terrace. And in a city where plenty of hotels still sneak a resort fee onto the bill, the Handlery doesn’t charge one.
Then there’s that story. Here’s how it all began.
From hats to hotels
Harry Handlery’s road to hotels began in a hat shop. In 1902, aged 14, he left Ukraine and spent three weeks crossing the Atlantic in steerage, arriving in America without a word of English. After joining his older brother in Boston, he headed west to California, where he found work in a hat shop in Vallejo. Before long, the shop was his.
Hats, it turned out, were only the beginning. In 1928, Harry and two investors bought the Casa de Vallejo, and with it he set down the philosophy his family still swears by: “To have every guest not question why they stayed here, but to question why they didn’t stay here before.”
Looking after people came naturally to Harry, and so, it turned out, did spotting a good opportunity. And, as demand for accommodation near California’s military bases grew, so did Harry’s business. In 1948, he bought the Hotel Stewart on Geary Street, built in 1908 as San Francisco rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake and fire.
By 1954, the teenager who had crossed the Atlantic in steerage was running 26 hotels across California, and Handlery Hotels had grown to become the largest family-owned hotel company in the world.
Harry’s son Paul had ideas of his own. After studying hotel management at Cornell University and serving in the US Army during World War II, he returned to the family busines, then build and opened the Handlery Motor Inn next door to the Hotel Stewart in 1964.
Paul wanted to create something new, and the Handlery Motor Inn offered modern features that were quite unusual at the time, including in-room coffee makers, bedside remote controls for the television and radio, lighted vanity areas and balconies. There was also a heated outdoor pool in the courtyard, a feature that remains one of the hotel’s biggest drawcards today.
Four generations and counting
Jon, Jack and Laura Handlery © Handlery Hotels
Today, the fourth generation of Handlery hoteliers is helping run the business. Jon Handlery became general manager of the San Francisco hotel in 1996 and president of Handlery Hotels in 2008. His son Jack is now general manager of the Union Square property, while his daughter Laura also works in the hotel.
Harry and Paul have been reimagined as ducks in the hotel’s own playful online Duck-umentary. Harry Ducklery and Papa Paul Ducklery set off from a pond in Ukraine, travel west and eventually find their way into the hotel business. It’s an unexpectedly whimsical take on a century of family history, and the ducks’ adventures didn’t stop there. Guests can pick up a Ducklery duck of their own, take it on their travels and upload photos to the hotel’s interactive duck map, where ducks from around the world plot their own journeys.
The hotel closed its doors for 16 months during the pandemic. Convention business was slower to return than leisure travel, but the family is optimistic about San Francisco’s future and the approaching anniversary.
“My family has been welcoming guests to San Francisco for generations,” Jack says. “Seeing the growth and transformation of the city coming out of COVID has been an incredible thing to witness, and I’m optimistic about where we’re headed. I look forward to welcoming more guests through our doors as we approach our 100th anniversary in 2028.”
Inside the Handlery Union Square Hotel
Premier Queen Room © Handlery Union Square Hotel
The hotel’s 377 rooms occupy two quite different buildings, which makes choosing a room worth a little thought. Rooms in the Historic Section, in the old Hotel Stewart, retain the ornate details of their Victorian-era architecture, while the larger Premier Section rooms, in Paul’s former Motor Inn, come with upgraded amenities and, in many cases, a balcony overlooking the city or the courtyard pool.
Both sections have the essentials covered, including a flat-screen TV, mini fridge, complimentary coffee and tea, and free Wi-Fi.
For families, the Handlery is a good option. Book a Premier Queen x Queen room, with two queen beds and the pool close at hand, or one of the family suites, which gives everyone a little more room to spread out.
Travelling as a couple? A Premier King, with its pillow-top king bed and, in some cases, a private balcony, is another option. And if it’s a special occasion, the hotel’s suites are worth considering. The San Francisco Suite pairs a king bedroom with a separate lounge and mini kitchen, while the Rooftop Garden Suite comes with its own living area, wet bar and private terrace overlooking the city. It’s a spot to enjoy a glass of Napa bubbles as the sun sets over Union Square.
The family calls the Garden Suite “Grandma’s Room” in honour of Jon Handlery’s grandmother, who was a long-term guest.
That pool (and a few other perks)
© Handlery Union Square Hotel
San Francisco isn’t exactly known for its outdoor swimming pools, which makes the Handlery’s heated courtyard pool a bit of a find. Kept at around 27°C and open year-round, it’s surrounded by sun loungers and makes a lovely spot to kick back after a day of exploring. It might not be big enough for serious lap swimming, but if your kids are anything like mine, they’ll be in there before you’ve had a chance to put your feet up.
Grown-ups get their treats too. The dry sauna in the Premier Section is free for guests, although it’s worth reserving a session. The 24-hour fitness centre has treadmills, ellipticals, bikes and free weights for anyone determined to keep up their routine.
The concierge team can help with everything from restaurant bookings and theatre tickets to sightseeing tours. The business centre offers free boarding pass printing, and the hotel welcomes dogs, so four-legged family members can come too.
It’s worth noting that the hotel doesn’t currently list an on-site breakfast restaurant, but the surrounding streets have plenty of cafes and bakeries, so you won’t go hungry. Oh, and if you’re driving, covered valet parking is available for an extra cost.
The Handlery’s central San Francisco location
Powell Street Cable Car. Photo by Enrique Cortes on Pexels
One of the Handlery Union Square Hotel’s biggest selling points is its location at 351 Geary Street, a block from Union Square and within easy reach of San Francisco’s cable cars, shopping streets, theatres and major attractions.
The Powell Street cable car turnaround is about a five-minute walk away. Powell Street BART station is also nearby, providing a rail connection to San Francisco International Airport in roughly 30 minutes, depending on the service and journey conditions. For Australian visitors, that’s a useful option if you’d rather avoid hiring a car in the city.
The theatre district is on your doorstep, the shops of Union Square are a stroll away, and Chinatown, the Moscone Center and SFMOMA are all within easy walking distance. Jump on a cable car to explore the city, including Fisherman’s Wharf.
→ Planning a San Francisco trip? Read our guide to why San Francisco deserves a spot on your 2027 travel list
Book your stay at The Handelry Union Square
With its central location and heated outdoor pool, not to mention its warm, personal service, the Handlery Union Square Hotel is the sort of place that makes exploring San Francisco easy, with the city’s shops, cable cars and attractions right on your doorstep.
→ Check rates and availability at Handlery Union Square Hotel, and sign up for the free Handlery Rewards program.
For more California inspiration, tips and travel guides, try these…
San Francisco Travel Guide 2027: Best Things to Do and Where to Stay
30 reasons why California is America’s ultimate family playground
Why the Getty Center is an essential stop on your LA itinerary
52 reasons to spend seven days in Anaheim with kids
48 hours in Joshua Tree, California
United Economy Plus Sydney to Los Angeles Review
Aleney de Winter is one of Australia’s most influential family travel journalists. She has been writing about travel and food for almost 20 years and is the long-standing editor of Holidays with Kids and its sibling titles, Caravan & Camping with Kids and Ski & Snowboard witk Kids. Her travel stories also appear in Signature Luxury Travel & Style, Escape, 9Travel, Vacations & Travel, Mindfood and Concierge, among others. Her work has earned a PATA Gold Award for Travel Journalism and eleven Australian Society of Travel Writers awards, and she served seven terms as the society’s Vice President. This website, which she started in 2011, has been named ASTW Best Travel Website three times. 