Weird and wonderful Joshua Tree, California

Gnarly twisted Joshua Tree's at Joshua Tree National Park

The sleepy town of Joshua Tree is just a short distance east of Palm Springs, but the difference is startling.  Modernist architecture is supplanted with huge weather-smoothed boulders and in place of the beautiful people Palm Springs is renowned for, you’ll find … well, a bunch of resident pricks. Of the cacti variety.

Of course, you’ll also find Joshua Tree’s Joshua Trees. You know, the ones so oddly shaped and gnarly that they look like they were illustrated into the desert by Dr Seuss.

Joshua Tree's in Joshua Tree National Park

Oh, and when I say desert, I don’t mean to conjure visions of Lawrence of Arabia and camel studded masses of sand. It’s not like that. Instead this lyrical landscape is a place of rolling hills scattered with pretty coloured flowers, palm tree oases, kooky cacti, piles of scattered boulders secreting hidden caves, a stack of those fabulously freaky trees, and vistas of mesas, mountains and valleys.

Purple Desert flowers in Joshua Tree National Park

Just to confuse things further, the slow-growing Joshua trees smattered throughout the Joshua Tree National Park aren’t actually trees – they’re succulents, a type of plant that stores water and belongs to the genus Yucca.

Joshua Tree's in Joshua Tree National Park

These resilient trees can take up to 60 years to mature, live for as long as 500 years and are a unique part of the ecosystem of the Mojave Desert, the only place they’re found, where they provide a home to a number of native birds, mammals, insects, and lizards.

That is if they’re not chopped down by feckless tools, which is precisely what happened earlier this year during a Federal Government shutdown.

Joshua Tree's look like Dr Seuss drawings

 


Joshua Tree and U2


Joshua Tree National Park is a place so weirdly wondrous that it has inspires art, music and many a myths. Its namesake trees were made famous as the (back) cover girl of the U2 Album of the same name, though the super star Joshua Tree known and loved by fans wasn’t actually from Joshua Tree, instead it was snapped some 300 kilometres away at Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park in Inyo County. But that’s just semantics, right? And while the album remains a musical icon, these days the tree is more of a stump with a couple of busted up guitars and a plaque asking, “Have you found what you’re looking for?”  Die-hard U2 fans might be better off making the pilgrimage to the Harmony Motel, located minutes away from the headquarters of Joshua Tree National Park, where the band stayed while working on the album.

Regardless, I can’t help busting out into a few loud strains of ‘In God’s Country’ as I swagger amongst the trees.

Desert sky, dream beneath a desert sky, The rivers run but soon run dry, We need new dreams tonight.”

My travel companions may also need new eardrums as Bono I am not. I can’t even rock a mullet let alone a tune. In fact, the closest I get to rock’n’roll is slipping off one of the boulders.

Skull Rock from a really bad angle at Joshua Tree

So instead I nix the soundtrack to tip toe through the cacti, meander through oases of palms, stumble over boulders like a less graceful Desert Bighorn Sheep, check out the ominously names Skull Rock and stop to gaze in awe over the Coachella Valley from Keys View lookout.

Views over the Coachella Valley

 


Joshua Tree Town


While every single Joshua Tree had its own quite magnetic personality – some standing tall, others twisted at angles like they’d been frozen in place mid musical chairs, it’s the township of Joshua Tree that has the biggest personality of all.

Joshua Tree Tavern Street Art

Arty, eclectic and well, just kinda weird, its loaded with quirky characters (can someone explain to me why a half-naked man was surfing on the roof of a passing car?).

Joshua Tree Saloon California

You’ll also find  galleries, funky cafes, desert charm in spades and rough and ready early openers that wouldn’t look out of place in a Tarantino flick.

Joshua Tree Weirdness

 


Pioneer Town, Joshua Tree 


Speaking of flicks, just west of Joshua Tree, there is even a teensy tiny place called Pioneer Town. Created in the 1940s as an Old West movie set by actors Roy Rogers and Gene Autry, western fans may recognise it from Annie Oakley or The Cisco Kid and as many as 50 other western flicks.

Pioneer Town Saddle and American FLag

These days, other than the odd campy gunfight outside its faux-frontier buildings, the town is less wild west and more a quiet community of artists, eccentrics and retirees.

Pioneer Town Joshua Tree

And those faux Old West cottages that were built with movies in mind are now small boutiques and stores that are being operated and lived in by real people.

There are residents now at Pioneer Town

Pioneer Town is also home to the one of the world’s most remote and legendary music venues, the rocking Pappy and Harriet’s Pioneer Town Tavern.

Pappy & Harriet's Pioneer Town Palace

The rustic former biker bar has seen everyone from Robert Plant and Paul McCartney to PJ Harvey grace its small stage. But, just quietly, I reckon it’s their outdoor mesquite fire grilled barbecue pork ribs that really rock.

Keep Joshua Tree Weird Sign at Pappy & Harriets


A sky full of stars


If you want to see real stars, grab a blanky and head to Twentynine Palms and Sky’s the Limit Observatory And Nature Center in Joshua Tree National Park after dark to see a sky full of them. An officially designated International Dark Sky location, the otherworldly Joshua Tree National Park proves the perfect place to spy … other worlds … and more stars than you could poke a cactus at.

Catcus Joshua Tree

 


Need to know


Getting there: Joshua Tree is a one hour drive from Palm Springs. Drop by the visitor centre for a quick lesson in local flora and geology and to map out the the best sighting route for your family and time. For the ultimate Joshua Tree experience we recommend pitching a tent to sleep under that legendary desert sky.

Dress: Wear sensible enclosed walking shoes and pack sunscreen, deserts are hot!

More info: Visit Joshua Tree National Park or San Bernardino County 


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