Review: Rolly’s Bistro, Mosman

Pork knuckle at Rolly's Bistro at Warringah Bowling Club

A very hungry Raff road-tests the smokin’ new menu at Mosman’s new Rolly’s Bistro.

Trust me, you’re going to smell Rolly’s Bistro before you see it thanks to the siren scent of a massive smoker that’s filling the rarefied air of Mosman with fragrant applewood smoke that is sure to lure people from a block away.

At least it did me and boy am I glad, because barbecue wings, brisket and ribs were my reward when I arrived at this laid-back restaurant in the Warringah Bowls Club. Situated alongside a perfectly groomed bowling green, with awesome views that catch the tippy top of the Sydney city skyline, Rolly’s has added a smoky twist to Mosman’s culinary offerings.

While the smoker is exciting enough on its own, the menu is also littered with Swiss influenced dishes as well as traditional bistro favourites, which sounds like the perfect recipe for success if you ask me. Especially for families.

We started with a couple of shared entrees – cheese stuffed arancini and mozzarella stuffed meatballs. A bite through the crispy crumb of the Arancini unleashed a mouthful of soft cheesy rice. And the meatballs, bathed in a tangy tomato sauce and stuffed with oozy cheese, were juicy and moreish.

Mozzarella stuffed meatballs at Rolly's

Tastebuds ignited, we decided to order an extra entrée and take Rolly’s super smoker for a spin. That may have been one of our best decisions of the night, because the sticky smoky barbecue wings that arrived at our table were honestly amongst the best I’ve had. The meat practically leapt off the bone before the wing was even in my mouth… and the flavour was 10 out of 10. Chef’s kiss.

Wings off the smoker at Rolly's Bistro at Warringah Bowling Club © Boyeatsworld/Aleney de Winter

Onto the mains and I ordered the pork knuckle, which is meant to be for two, but I figured would be just about the right size for my appetite, at least until I saw the hulking plate of food arrive. The gargantuan pork knuckle was complemented by sides of stewed apple, baked potatoes stacked high with sour cream and bacon, massive balls of stuffing, coleslaw, mustard and stacks of delicious gravy.

Rubbing my already bulbous belly I wondered if that extra entrée might have been a mistake. But all it took was one nibble of the luscious pork and I was wolfing it down at speed until all that was left on my plate was the bone.

With the restaurant recently taken over by the delightful team from Turramurra’s The Matterhorn, I was curious about the menu’s Swiss items, so I stole a substantial chunk of mum’s main of Zuri Geschnatzlets with Rösti.

Zuri Geschnatzlets with Rösti at Rolly's MOsman

The tasty concoction of sliced veal strips, white wine, cream and mushrooms was accompanied by a crispy potato rosti, the perfect medium to soak up all the sauce. It was an onslaught of flavours and something I’d be happy to eat on the daily.

Texas/Memphis style ribs from the smoker at Rolly's Bistro at Warringah Bowling Club © Boyeatsworld/Aleney de Winter

My sister’s serve of barbecue pork ribs, straight out of Rolly’s smoker, was accompanied by a side of fluffy hand cut chips. The pork ribs fell off the bone and were smothered in a sweet and tangy Memphis-style barbecue sauce that she wore as much of as she consumed. Which is saying something because she consumed heaps…  this stuff was so good you could drink it.

With bellies already fit to burst from the huge feast, we couldn’t quite bring ourselves to stop. Not when there was apple and rhubarb strudel waiting. The hot, fresh layers of flaky pastry wrapped around a fab filling of crisp apple and rhubarb was smothered in gorgeously silky cream and vanilla ice-cream. Seriously, I would have ordered eight of these if mum had let me.

Rolly's rocks desert! Rolly's Bistro Mosman

But she sensibly suggested that we instead scoff the white chocolate and raspberry torte, which she loved so much she finished before I could steal much of it, but the bit I did manage to scavenge was sublime – the age-old pairing of raspberry and white choc made even better by the fluffy torte.

If you’re looking for a casual meal with a delectably smoky twist, get to Rolly’s now.

Reviewed by Raff – Age 14

Rolly’s Bistro Mosman
Warringah Bowling Club Mosman
74-82 Bradleys Head Rd,
Mosman 2088
(02) 9969 4313

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Hey, I’m Aleney! A mum, award-winning travel writer, magazine editor and gallivanting glutton. He’s Raff, the “boy” in boyeatsworld, and a fearless foodie, adventurer and eco-warrior. Along with his all-singing, all-dancing, all-adventurous sister, Sugarpuff, we’re exploring the world’s colour, culture and cuisine on a food safari for the junior set.

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