Its more than a touch problematic that anything even remotely resembling an aircraft has me reaching for the smelling salts as I spend an absurdly high proportion of my life in the sky. Because, given my unfortunate lack of feathers, I have no choice but to resort to hitching a ride on a big metal bird.

Is my fear logical? No. Of course it’s bloody not. Do I know all the stats about how safe it is? Of course, I bloody do. I’m phobic, not daft. But having eleventy billion or so flights under my belt, I now have my fears completely under control. At least, if you consider sweaty browed pre-flight anxiety, resorting to mainlining Rescue Remedy and rocking back and forth during take-off, landing and the bit in the middle, crazy-eyed with panic whenever the plane hits even the smallest amount of turbulence, “under control”.

My favourite flights are the really, really long ones (and by favourite, I mean dislike immensely). You know, flights like the 12,060-kilometre jaunt from Sydney to Los Angeles, which I’m about to board.

The good news is that I’m somewhat less stressed than I normally would be as I’m flying  United Economy Plus from Sydney to Los Angeles on the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner, a plane I’m fond of due to its ambient lighting and space. The even better news is I’ve won the airline lottery because there’s an empty seat alongside me, and I’m given a heads up from a savvy flight attendant that an ameliorating G&T will be in my hands the minute the plane reaches altitude. I decide to take this all as a sign from the gods that I’m in for a good flight, though my forehead still beads up with sweat as we take off.

The seat and amenities

As per previous flights with United, my United Economy Plus flight from Sydney to Los Angeles turns out to be extremely pleasant, with zero yelping and not so much as a single rocking motion required from me. Indeed, from the minute my promised G&T appears, I pretty much forget I’m even in an airplane. And not just because I’m half cut after one (one thing I do like about flying is that it makes booze doubly effective).

Whilst some of the credit can go to the makers of Bombay Sapphire, more goes to my comfy Economy Plus seating, which provides an extremely affordable option between the squishy confines of a standard economy seat and the big buck business class seats at the pointy end of the plane.

The 3-3-3 configuration of the aircraft’s seating feels pleasantly uncrowded and all are equipped with adjustable headrests with a pillow, blanket and headphones. While the seat width is the same as a standard economy seat at 17.3 inches, there are a solid few inches of extra legroom as well as a decent pinch of additional pitch, which makes an enormous difference to long-haul comfort.

In-flight Entertainment

But there’s still the matter of 13 hours and 40 minutes to kill, and while I consider taking a nap, the likelihood of my anxiety-riddled self actually sleeping on a flight is about as likely as me not ordering another G&T.

So, I check out United Private Screening, the back-of-seat entertainment system which offers a stack of latest release and classic movies and TV, including plenty of family options, plus a selection of audio books. In my kid-free state, I’m soon happily ensconced in a selection of highbrow movies with snappy dialogue and actual storylines that involve neither animation nor superheroes.

There’s also onboard Wi-Fi (available at a fee per use), a USB charging port, and an international power outlet in between the seats.

Appy travels

A special mention has to go to the frankly awesome United app, which allows me to check my flight, view and change seat assignments, check in, and watch for upgrade status (the anticipation is like waiting for the last ball to drop in Lotto) all on my mobile. I can also access the app in flight to watch TV shows and movies on my phone, should I desire, and I can track the status of my checked bags and arrival gate details.

Meal service

Another bonus for United Premium Plus passengers is that the cabin is located at the front of the plane, meaning they’re first up for the airline’s inflight service. While my Bombay Sapphire comes at a cost, there is a good selection of complimentary beers and wines, as well as tea, coffee and water, which are far more sensible for those wishing to stay hydrated during the long flight. Of course, once the G&T has worked its soothing magic, I order a nice glass of syrah. Sensible never was my thing.

Inflight meals are generous. Not long after take-off I enjoy a tasty main of tangy tomato pasta with vegetables, a salad and a wholemeal roll, with a red wine chaser. There’s also a creamy salted caramel swirl ice cream for desert.  A mid-flight snack of a tasty turkey roll and a couple of Tim Tams is consumed with equal appreciation.

As United Airlines appear to have perfected time travel (or the fact that we’ve crossed the international date line and there’s a 17-hour time difference, but let’s not quibble), the flight manages to land in LA several hours before it left Sydney, following a hearty breakfast of fresh fruit and a very edible sausage and egg number.

I feel fresh as I disembark my United Economy Plus Sydney to Los Angeles flight and dive into LAX, ready to face the heinous immigration queues I’ve been promised by everyone ever. But I’m happy to report, the process proves as ridiculously smooth as my flight.

Disclosure: I flew as a guest of United Airlines, but all sweat beaded brows, gin-swilling and opinions are my own

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The sleepy town of Joshua Tree is just a short distance east of Palm Springs, but the difference between the two is startling.  Modernist architecture is supplanted with huge weather-smoothed boulders and in place of the beautiful people Palm Springs is renowned for, you’ll find … well, a bunch of resident pricks. Of the cacti kind.

Of course, you’ll also find Joshua Tree’s Joshua Trees. You know, the ones so oddly shaped and gnarly that they look like they were illustrated into the desert by Dr Seuss.

Oh, and when I say desert, I don’t mean to conjure visions of Lawrence of Arabia and camel studded masses of sand. It’s not like that. Instead this lyrical landscape is a place of rolling hills scattered with colourful flowers, palm tree oases, kooky cacti, piles of scattered boulders secreting hidden caves, a stack of those implausibly fabulous trees, and epic vistas of mesas, mountains and valleys.

Just to confuse things further, the slow-growing Joshua trees smattered throughout Joshua Tree National Park aren’t actually trees – they’re succulents, a type of plant that stores water and belongs to the genus Yucca.

These resilient trees can take up to 60 years to mature, live for as long as 500 years and are a unique part of the ecosystem of the Mojave Desert, the only place they’re found, where they provide a home to a number of native birds, mammals, insects, and lizards.

That is if they’re not chopped down by feckless morons, which was a sad reality earlier in 2019 during the Federal Government shutdown.

Joshua Tree and U2

Joshua Tree National Park is a place so weirdly wondrous that it has inspires art, music and many a myths. Its gnarly namesake trees were made famous as the (back) cover girl of the U2 Album of the same name, though the super star Joshua Tree known and loved by fans wasn’t actually from Joshua Tree, instead it was snapped some 300 kilometres away at Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park in Inyo County. But that’s just semantics, right?

And while the album remains a musical icon, these days the tree is more of a stump with a couple of busted up guitars and a plaque asking, “Have you found what you’re looking for?” Die-hard U2 fans might be better off making the pilgrimage to the Harmony Motel, located minutes away from the headquarters of Joshua Tree National Park, where the band stayed while working on the album.

Regardless, I can’t help busting out into a few loud strains of ‘In God’s Country’ as I swagger amongst the trees.

“Desert sky, dream beneath a desert sky, The rivers run but soon run dry, We need new dreams tonight.”

My travel companions may also need new eardrums as Bono I am not. I can’t even rock a mullet let alone a tune. In fact, the closest I get to rock’n’roll is slipping off one of the boulders.

So I nix the soundtrack to quietly tip toe through the cacti, meander through oases of palms, stumble over boulders like a less graceful Desert Bighorn Sheep, check out the ominously named Skull Rock, and pause to gaze in awe over the Coachella Valley from Keys View lookout.

Joshua Tree Town

While every single Joshua Tree has its own quite magnetic personality – some standing tall, others kinked and twisted at angles like they’d been frozen in place mid musical chairs, it’s the township of Joshua Tree that has the biggest personality of all.

Arty, eclectic and well, just kinda weird, its loaded with quirky characters (can someone explain to me why a half-naked man was surfing on the roof of a passing car?).

You’ll also find  galleries, funky cafes, desert charm in spades and rough and ready early openers that wouldn’t look out of place in a Tarantino flick.

Pioneer Town, Joshua Tree 

Speaking of flicks, just west of Joshua Tree, there is a tiny place called Pioneer Town that’s big on character. Created in the 1940s as an Old West movie set by actors Roy Rogers and Gene Autry, western fans may recognise it from the cinematic likes of Annie Oakley or The Cisco Kid.

These days, other than the odd campy gunfight that breaks out in front of its faux-frontier buildings, the town is less wild west and more a quirky community of artists, eccentrics and retirees.

And those faux Old West cottages that were built with movies in mind are now small boutiques and stores that are being operated and lived in by real people.

Pioneer Town is also home to the one of the world’s most remote and legendary music venues, the rocking Pappy and Harriet’s Pioneer Town Tavern.

The rustic former biker bar has seen everyone from Robert Plant and Paul McCartney to PJ Harvey grace its small stage. But, just quietly, I reckon it’s their outdoor Mesquite fire grilled barbecue pork ribs that really rock.

A sky full of stars

If you want to see real stars, grab yourself a blanky and head to Twentynine Palms and ​Sky’s the Limit Observatory And Nature Center in Joshua Tree National Park after dark where you will see a sky full of them. An officially designated International Dark Sky location, the otherworldly Joshua Tree National Park proves the perfect place to spy … other worlds … and more stars than you can poke a cactus at.

Need to know

Getting there: Joshua Tree is a one hour drive from Palm Springs. Drop by the visitor centre for a quick lesson in local flora and geology and to map out the the best sighting route for your family and time. For the ultimate Joshua Tree experience we recommend pitching a tent to sleep under that legendary desert sky.

Dress: Wear sensible enclosed walking shoes and pack sunscreen, deserts are hot!

More info: Visit Joshua Tree National Park or San Bernardino County 

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Ever wondered what it’s like to fly ultra long haul in United’s Economy Plus?  I settle in on the airline’s new 15 hour and 40-minute, 13,850km service from Sydney to Houston to find out.

Some might suggest it’s slightly demented for a chronic flight phobic to choose a profession that saw her boarding almost 50 flights in the last 12 months alone. But I’m not the only one making dubious career choices, here. I mean, William Shatner is afraid of flying, and he was freakin’ Captain Kirk. And you know, I’ve never been one to let something like a stomach-churning, knee-shaking fear of boarding a plane stop me doing something I love. Instead I simply put myself through a well-practiced process of extreme terror, crazed imaginings and anxiety, starting a good 12-hours before boarding and continuing for the duration of any flight.  That’s right, I’m not just afraid of take offs and landings, but the bit in the middle too.

So you can imagine my joy at discovering my United Airlines flight to Houston, the gateway to all that’s interesting about Texas, and a hub that connects travellers to America’s Southeast, Midwest, East Coast and Latin America, is a 15 hour and 40-minute tour of duty. It is the longest non-stop flight I’ve undertaken. At least it will be until I make the 17-hour return flight home.

But in a surprise turn of events, the ultra-long-haul flight on the airline’s sexy new 787-9 Dreamliner turns out to be such an ultra-pleasant experience that I forget I’m even the sky. Much credit for this must go to my genius Economy Plus seating, a standard economy seat that comes with extra legroom and a little more pitch. Unless you’re a contortionist or a five-year old, leg room is everything on a flight and I find these extra centimetres go a long way to increasing my comfort during this one.

United’s Economy Plus is an extremely affordable option, bridging the gap between standard economy and the often out of reach business or premium economy seating, so there’s really no need to fork out big bucks, or sit resentfully staring towards the pointy end of the plane.

With no kids to hold my hand on this flight, I’ve elected to sit in the aisle seat for a little more freedom and an extra sense of space, and my window seat companion and I are delighted to discover we won the airplane lottery and have an empty seat between us. It’s a promising start.

Because United Airlines Premium Plus seating is located at the front of the plane, it also means we’re the first up for the airline’s excellent inflight service, with beverages commencing immediately after take-off.  While there is a selection of complimentary beers and wines, I nix these in favour of a cuppa and a bottle of water, more than aware of the need to stay hydrated for a flight of this duration.

Of course, I’m unable to resist the siren song of wine for long and my good intentions last only until the flight attendants come by offering the first of three meal services.

A generous glass of Syrah goes perfectly with my tangy tomato and mushroom pasta, though not so much with the creamy salted caramel swirl ice cream that the friendly flight attendants offer for dessert. I’m not complaining. In fact I order another.

The biggest question is what the heck does one do for almost 16-hours at 40,000 feet? Well, a normal person would probably take the opportunity to enjoy a nice long sleep, but I find getting anything even resembling slumber in the confines of economy about as likely as being invited to first class to drink a magnum of Moet through a diamond studded golden straw while receiving a sky-high massage from Chris Hemsworth.

Instead, with a plastic cup full of water for company, I opt to just watch him as there’s a bit of a Hemsworthfest happening on the in-flight entertainment. United Private Screening is the airline’s back-of-seat entertainment system, and allows passengers to check out and pre-select a list of preferred choices from a comprehensive selection of latest release and classic movies and TV series, including a stack of family options, before you fly.

There’s also onboard Wi-Fi (available at a fee per use), in-seat power and I’ve packed my laptop to get a little work done later in the flight. At least that’s my intention.

You see, the impossible happens.  The flight is so comfortable, the ventilation so good, the lighting so ambient, and the flight so gloriously turbulence free, that I am lulled into a dribbling, Thor-infused sleep. Only waking when a kindly flight attendant pokes me to see if I’m hungry. I am. And though I’m a touch disappointed that the prodding hasn’t come from a hand attached to a muscular Thor-sized arm, I’m pleased to have slept at all and accept my snack, a fairly tasty sandwich and a couple of Tim Tams, happily.

The considerable time difference between Sydney and Houston sees us landing just 50 minutes after take-off, post a breakfast frittata.

I feel relatively fresh as I disembark into the cavernous halls of Houston Airport, one of the most efficient airports I’ve come across, and am raring to explore to the Texan town, America’s fourth largest, which I’m sure will prove every bit as great as the flight did to get here.

Disclosure: I flew as a very grateful guest of United Airlines, but all anxiety-induced shaking, Hemsworth-infused fantasies and opinions are my own

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Houston, we have a problem. Well, at least Raffles does. You see the boy is so obsessed with space that’s he’s saving up all his pocket money for a $250,000 a hit ticket on a yet-to-launch Virgin Galactic space flight (yes, he’ll be saving until he’s about 157 by my calculations), and has grand plans to ski the ice planet of Pluto (once he can work out a way around the “trivial” issues of the deadly -240 degree Celsius temperatures turning him into a human popsicle and the lack of breathable oxygen).

This, though, is not his problem. I am. Because while he is back in Australia, I am exploring Texas and the incredible Space Center Houston, fondling moon rocks and getting mano a mano with real live astronauts. And let me tell you, the kid is pretty miffed.

Can’t say I blame him. Space Center Houston is enough to turn even the most hardened hipster into a raving space nerd! The place is epic, both in size and experience. Just don’t tell Raff that, eh? I’m in enough trouble already.

Space Center Houston is the wonderfully accessible, nonprofit gateway to the NASA Johnson Space Center. One of the things that immediately stands out, besides the enormous space ships, is that, in one small leap for man and one giant leap for those with a disability, there are no roadblocks for anyone here. There are accessible ramps and lifts throughout, and sensory friendly evenings for visitors with autism spectrum disorder and sensory processing disorders. There are also Sensory Backpacks available at the front desk that include fidget spinners, stuffed animals, ear muffs, and sunglasses, among other things, to ensure all visitors are looked after. They even host a multiple day Vis U program for visually impaired students.

Outside in Independence Plaza is the Space Shuttle Independence, a full-scale, high-fidelity replica of the Space Shuttle, mounted on top of the historic and original NASA 905 shuttle carrier aircraft.  Visitors are welcome to explore both, inside and out (and there are lifts to make it easier for those with limited mobility).

Inside are auditoriums screening movies and literally hundreds of exhibits. The centre houses amazing artefacts including ACTUAL really real Gemini, Apollo and Mercury space capsules, which are so surprisingly small, the mere sight of them causes me claustrophobia.

There’s a Skylab Training module that you can walk through, pieces of moon rock and mars rock you can touch, an enormous collection of space suits, interactive exhibits and virtual reality experiences. Especially for kids are the Angry Birds Space-themed, interactive play area, and fun pop up shows based on STEM technologies.

I shake hands with an astronaut (at least his wax counterpart) and also find real-life astronauts sauntering about.

Well, not exactly sauntering, but talking to visitors in the auditorium.Today, Dr. John-David F. Bartoe, a former Space Shuttle astronaut and Chief Scientist for the Space Station and currently Research Manager of the International Space Station, is on hand to chat about his missions into outer space. Nerd swoon!

But for me it is the Tram Tour that ferries us to the heart of NASA’s Johnson Space Center and Historic Mission Control, in all its retro glory, that sends me into orbit.

I mean, I’m walking the same hallways as Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin and sitting in the very seat that Queen Elizabeth sat in when she came to see a flight mission on her visit(the second from the left in the front row of the VIP viewing room, if you’re wondering).

Unfortunately, no regal vibes rub off and I let out a suitably heathen snort of excitement when I spot the tiny speaker that delivered Neil Armstrong’s magic words “Houston, Tranquility Base here. The Eagle has landed” on July 20, 1969.

It’s also the same speaker from which the Apollo 13 team famously declared “OK, Houston, we’ve had a problem here” which erroneously gets reported in the somewhat snappier form quoted by Matt Damon who, incidentally, also once nestled his bottom into one of these very seats.

I’m a little gobsmacked by the technology, or lack thereof, that safely guided humans across 356,000 km of space from the Earth to the Moon and back. I mean these massive computers had less memory than the average USB stick, and the tiny iPhone I’m holding can process information 120,000,000 times faster.

Upstairs, the tech gets visibly more gnarly. We walk on an elevated path past the Space Vehicle Mockup Facility where NASA astronauts still train for missions and where scientists and engineers develop the next generation of space exploration vehicles.

It’s also the place NASA’s R5, aka Valkyrie, was designed and built and we can see the humanoid space robot, looking for the all the world like a prototype Ironman.

The tour finishes in an immense hanger, where as I walk the prone length of an enormous Saturn V rocket ship at 3pm, I decide to Facetime my small, barely even awake boy in Australia (its 6am at home) and make him hate me that little bit more.

But I have a cunning plan in place to win back his fickle affections! You see, the facility’s Space Center-U offers five-day lunar programs for students ages 11 and over. The programmes combine classroom theory with cognitive and tactile tasks, collaborative projects, simulated astronaut training in the Neutral Buoyancy Laboratory and NASA Johnson Space Center, plus real-world NASA experiences in areas such as robotics, rocketry, thermal protection systems and space habitats. And I think that next year we might just let him blast off on a mission from Sydney to Houston for some out of this world adventures of his own. As long as his newly-minted space nerd mum can come to.

Need to know before you go
Tickets are available online or at the door.
Get there early at opening time to beat the crowds.
Pick up a daily schedule on arrival and plan your day.
Bring a pram if you’re visiting with little ones because this place is huge.
Allow at least four hours to see everything.
Do the tram tour to NASA Johnston Space Center first as wait times can become long as the day progresses.
Space Center Houston is accessible. Visitors with autism spectrum disorder and sensory processing disorders can attend Sensory friendly evenings or head to the front desk for a Sensory Backpack.
If you’re travelling with kids over 14 and over, book the Level 9 Tour, to be immersed into the ultimate, behind-the-scenes VIP experience of NASA.

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With United Airlines launching flights direct from Sydney to Houston, an already popular hub that connects travellers to America’s Southeast, Midwest, East Coast and Latin America, Australians are wondering what the city, America’s fourth-most populous and most diverse city, might have to offer visiting families.

I discover, after a few days of the city’s extreme congeniality, the answer is plenty. One of the best spots for a weekend getaway in Texas, here we share some of the best ways to spend 48-hours in Houston with kids.

The best things to do in Houston with kids

1. Head out of this world in Houston with kids

It’s number one on everyone’s Houston to do list and for very good reason. If you only have 48-hours in Houston with kids, the not to be missed Houston Space Centre has to be top of the list. The nonprofit gateway to NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Inside are auditoriums screening movies, a scale replica of the space shuttle and hundreds of exhibits including real Gemini, Apollo and Mercury space capsules, a Skylab Training module that you can walk through, pieces of moon rock and mars rock visitors can touch, an enormous collection of space suits, pop up shows based on STEM technologies, real-life astronauts to meet and greet and a fun space-themed play area for little visitors. It’s also a great place to stock up in Texan souvenirs. The Tram Tour to the heart of NASA’s Johnson Space Centre and Historic Mission Control, in all its retro glory, is an unmissable experience.

2. Explore Houston’s ever-evolving street art

Boasting its own graffiti museum and an annual mural festival, celebrating Houston’s diverse arts community, Houston is fast becoming one of the world’s great street art cities. Though there are dozens of inspiring pieces, my personal faves include the dripping, dribbling, the Instagram fabulous Biscuit Paint wall; the pretty Hummingbird Wall; the cool and colourful, Houston Is Inspired; and the city’s biggest work, Preservons la Creation, a masterpiece of Texan proportions.

3. Get your fill of Theme Park thrills in Houston

The Kemah Boardwalk has quickly evolved from a rustic waterfront dining experience to a weekend destination with little thrill seekers getting their fix of fun on the double-decker carousel and Ferris wheel, and older kids pumping up the adrenalin on the high speed wooden coaster, drop zone and looping thrill rides. There’s still plenty of great food to be found. Kids will specially love The Aquarium where they can dine on local delights under the blue reflections of a tank full of stingrays and fish.  Afterwards you can head downstairs to the Stingray Reef & Rainforest Exhibit Experience to hand feed the rays, who are just as friendly as the other Houston locals.

During the holidays there’s plenty of entertainment too with a lighted boat parade and toy drive, Rock the Dock, a summer music festival, and Friday night fireworks. To make the most of your weekend, book a stay at the seriously gorgeous Kemah Boardwalk Inn, a 58-room, boutique beauty with family-sized rooms and eager to please staff, located right in the centre of all the action.

4. Go batty in Houston 

Every night as the sun goes down, an estimated 250,000 Mexican free-tailed bats emerge in a whirlwind like formation from the crevices under the Waugh Drive Bridge. Even if you only have 48-hours in Houston with the kids, try to make it down there just once as the sight of the little bats on the hunt for insects – they chow down on around two and a half tons of them every night – is one to behold. But beware, sensitive kids may get upset at the whole circle of life scenario as they are not the only ones on the prowl, and the sight of predators like the night herons and Peregrine falcons swooping in to nosh on a little bat is not uncommon.

5. Get blinded by science at Houston Museum of Natural Science

They say everything is bigger in Texas and that appears to include dinosaur exhibits. The  Morian Hall of Paleontology at Houston Museum of Natural Science spans 2,800-square-metres and is packed with massive replicas of prehistoric creatures taking visitors on a journey, 3 billion years in the making. And it’s another stop to add to the must visit list if you only have 48-hours in Houston with kids. Connected and illustrated by animated monitors and colorful murals, the museum’s 60 jaw-dropping prehistoric skeletons, including three Tyrannosaurs and a mummified triceratops, are displayed in dynamic, fluid poses, some suspended from the ceiling, to show them chasing, eating and escaping from each other in a reenactment of their lives.

If you can drag your awestruck dino lovers away, the museum also houses a fascinating Planetarium, dazzling displays of gems, local wildlife, Native American Culture and an incredible Hall of Ancient Egypt, where hundreds of artefacts are on display, including an amazing collection of mummies that I have to admit gave this mummy the heebie-jeebies (I’ve watched way too many episodes of Scooby Doo and I don’t trust those pesky petrified kids).

6. Visit The Children’s Museum of Houston

Located in the Museum District, alongside lush and lovely Hermann Park, the Children’s Museum of Houston is a playground for the mind offering epic and educational fun for kids of all ages.

Rated the number one children’s museum in America by Parents Magazine, you’ll find innovative, interactive hands-on exhibits covering topics including arts, physical challenges, construction, science, invention and the environment. Especially popular is the Power Tower, a 12-metre-tall series of open-air climbing platforms encased in tunnels of netting, and the inventor’s workshops where kids can create extraordinary objects. There’s even spy missions for wannabe secret agents ready to rise to the challenge.

Oh, and on Thursday evenings, from 5 to 8 pm, the Museum hosts a Free Family Night with all admission fees waived. Booyah!

7. Go green in Houston

One of America’s great urban green spaces, Buffalo Bayou Park surrounds the slow-moving river of the same name. The verdant parkland contains a diverse ecosystem supporting dozens of species of native flora and fauna including its famous population of bats. The park has become a popular place for Houstonites to bike, hike and paddle. There’s also a dog park, a skate park and a historic reservoir with more than 200 cool concrete columns that has been turned into an awesome public art space.

Hermann Park, located alongside the end of the city’s Museum District is home to numerous cultural institutions including the Houston Zoo as well as gardens, picnic areas, great green spaces, and a recreational lake with pedal boats. Kids can ride the train along the Hermann Park Railroad, stroll along the trails, or even, enjoy a little moment of zen in the Japanese Garden.

The Houston Arboretum & Nature Center provides an oasis of lush meadows, forests, wetlands and ponds, with easily accessible nature trails that make spotting its variety of native wildlife a breeze for families.

And smack bang in the middle of downtown is Discovery Green, a 5-hectare environmental showcase in the heart of the city. With its own man-made lake, a kids’ play area, dog runs, a multi-use amphitheater, and an event lawn, it’s been designed as a backyard in the city to bring people together! Yep, there Houston goes being all friendly and togethery and inclusive again!

8. Enjoy Houston’s feast of kid-friendly dining

Houston is one of America’s great food cities. Its diverse and dynamic immigrant population have created an ever-evolving cuisine that you really can’t find anywhere else. And perhaps this is why the people here are so bloody warm and friendly. I know I feel pretty darned ready to be nice after a few days of satisfying my tummy and tastebuds on the city’s awesome, and mostly family friendly, food.

Good ol’ Texas style BBQ is a mainstay. Killen’s, voted one of the best barbecue restaurants in America, is a mecca for meat lovers with its briskets, pork ribs and sausages all slow-cooked over pits. But a few little local birdies tell me that Burns Original BBQ may even be better. Located in a working-class neighbourhood north of Houston, this joint is run by a family of legendary pit masters in the backyard of a converted small home and an army of raving fans swear their ribs, chicken and brisket are the best.

After canvassing an army of uber drivers, Mikki’s Soul Food Café comes out as the number one choice for homemade soul food with its huge serves of baked catfish, pork chops and meat loaf with rice, yams and freshly made cornbread. As for Mexican, the city serves up authentic cuisine from all over Mexico with everything from the fajitas served up at hole-in-the-wall eateries to the tacos at the food trucks dotting the city, knock this die-hard foody’s socks off. Then there are the upscale restaurants like the seriously sublime Xochi. Frankly, it is so good, I’d make the 16-hour Sydney to Houston commute just for a mouthful of their mole.

But it is the Vietnamese hybrid Viet-Cajun that really sets my soul on fire.  Crawfish & Noodles’ serve up garlic-­butter-soaked, Cajun-spiced mud bugs that are as out-of-this-world as you could get without going into orbit.

Houston with Kids – need to know before you go

When to visit
November to March is the most popular time to travel with little rain and less humidity.
Currency
US Dollar
Power
Standard voltage is 120 V and the frequency is 60 Hz. American plus have two flat-prongs and one round prong.
Visa & Passport Requirements
Visitors won’t be allowed to board a plane bound for the United States if they don’t have the required visa waiver or entry visa. If you are entering the United States for less than 90 days you may be eligible to enter on an ESTA under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP). In all other circumstances, you’ll need to get the appropriate visa before you travel. From personal experience, I recommend getting entry documentation organised at least three months before you travel. Visitors will require a passport that’s valid for at least six (6) months.
Health
Health care in the United States is awesome but expensive. Hospitals and medical centres may require you have health insurance or proof of ability to pay, so you will need to have adequate health coverage in your travel insurance policy. In the event of an emergency, the number to call in the United States is 911.
Tipping
Tipping is a widely practiced in the United States. In restaurants, it is considered impolite not to leave a gratuity of around 15% to 20% of the amount of your bill. Tips are also generally given for services provided in hotels and taxis.

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My first impressions of Houston, the most populous and diverse city in the U.S. state of Texas, are that the wonderfully diverse and undoubtedly delicious city is… humid with a chance of hugs.

I’ve been warned about the delays, long queues and heavy customs scrutiny when flying into America. So, I’m prepared for a long wait when I arrive at Houston’s sprawling George Bush Intercontinental Airport.

But, strangely, there’s just one person ahead of me in line and I find myself face to sober face with my inquisitor in a matter of seconds. The customs officer sees my Journalist Visa and raises his eyebrows. Why am I here, he asks? To write about why people should visit Houston, is my honest reply.

His expression changes in a blink. “Thank you” he says effusively. “We certainly appreciate that! You have a lovely stay”. He’s grinning so darned hard and seems so genuinely pleased that I half expect him to leap over the counter to give me a welcome hug. Definitely not what I expected.

Nor do I expect that, just fifteen minutes after touching down, I’d be through customs, reunited with my luggage and being lovelied to death by an Uber driver, a total stranger who appears to have mistaken me for his BFF.

What the heck is going on here? Have they dropped something in the water?

The charm offensive continues when I arrive at my stunning hotel, the new and utterly luxurious Hotel Alessandro, where I’m fawned over by the nicest hotel reception staff on earth.

I try to escape all the intense pleasantness in my room, a sophisticated confection of a thing with stunning modern artworks, a huge green chaise and the biggest (and most comfy) bed in the history of beds.

No luck, there’s also a bottle of wine waiting for me with a note that’s so sweet, I wonder if I’ve stumbled upon a previously undiscovered Shakespeare sonnet.

I head in to the enormous marble bathroom with a free-standing tub and walk-in shower where I refresh myself in preparation for a lunch date.

Given the speed of my arrival, I’ve a little more time to kill than I’d expected, so decide to pop down the street to nab a SIM card for my phone. I figure I’ll walk but given Houston’s heat and humidity, Prince Charming (the hotel calls him a valet) instead insists on whisking me off in a Maserati, the hotel’s free house car. I acquiesce, more than happy to be rescued in this sexy, leather-trimmed, air-conditioned steed.

My lunch date is equally demonstrative, greeting me with a hug and sweeping my jetlagged soul off to Xochi (pronounced so-chee), the newest undertaking of award-winning Chef Hugo Ortega, winner of Best Chef: Southwest at the prestigious 2017 James Beard Foundation Awards.

Here, you guessed it, the staff are all freaking nice. There’s not a sullen face amongst them. Even the sugar skull who greets us at the door is grinning.

In fact, everyone working here is so happy I swear they’ve been imbibing the restaurant’s incredible mescal soaked margaritas by the bucket load. Or is that just me?

The food – painstakingly authentic, insect-infused dishes from the chef’s home state of Oaxaca – is nice too. And by nice, I mean freaking amazing.  We start on a selection of house-made corn tortillas and four mouth-watering moles, one salty, one smoky, one tart and one infused with the funky-flavour of crunchy flying ants that is my out and out favourite. I can’t get enough.

We continue with share plates of wood-roasted oysters smothered in mole amarillo, cotija and breadcrumbs and crispy goat tacos with salsa verde.

Then comes the sautéed shrimp with chile de ajo, and an elegant ceviche of flash-seared tuna that is so pretty it almost pains me to eat it.

Almost. It tastes even better than it looks.

I realise it has been years since I have been this excited by every single element and course of a meal and am mentally investing in a new pair of jeans in which to squeeze my expanding belly when Ruben Ortega, chef Hugo’s brother and the restaurant’s resident pastry chef, comes to say hi.  He too is alarmingly charming, disappearing momentarily only to return with the most insane chocolate creation I’ve ever encountered.

The whimsical, airbrushed, white chocolate creation, simply entitled “Cacao”, mimics the appearance of a cacao pod, but lift the lid and secreted inside are a variety of chocolate delights, all made straight from the bean at the restaurant.

It is a revelation of textures and flavours and despite my fullness, I scoff the lot.

Before I step out into the heat to explore a little more of this so far intriguing city, I farewell my lunch date and Mr Ortega with an embrace.  Hot and humid Houston, it turns out, is a hugger! And it might just be home to some of the most welcoming people on earth.

Click here for the top eight reasons we think families should plan a stay in Hugston… I mean Houston.

HOUSTON WITH KIDS – NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
When to visit
November to March is the most popular time to travel with little rain and less humidity.
Currency
US Dollar
Power
Standard voltage is 120 V and the frequency is 60 Hz. American plugs require two flat-prongs and one round prong. 
Visa & Passport Requirements
Visitors won’t even be allowed to board a plane bound for the United States if they don’t have the required visa waiver or entry visa. If you are entering the United States for less than 90 days you may be eligible to enter on an ESTA under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP). In all other circumstances, you’ll need to get the appropriate visa before you travel. From personal experience, I recommend getting entry documentation organised at least three months before you travel. Visitors will require a passport that’s valid for at least six (6) months.
Health
Health care in the United States is awesome but expensive. Hospitals and medical centres may require you have health insurance or proof of ability to pay, so you will need to have adequate health coverage in your travel insurance policy. In the event of an emergency, the number to call in the United States is 911.
Tipping
Tipping is a widely practiced in the United States. In restaurants, it is considered impolite not to leave a gratuity of around 15% to 20% of the amount of your bill. Tips are also generally given for services provided in hotels and taxis.

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